07 May 2013

You lil ripper!

This is what I want to do.... Live on the coast in a van I've done up - painted outside and full with surfboards, camera gear and sleeping bags on the inside. I'll be a surf coast photographer because this is where I feel most drawn to...

I took these photos at Lorne over the weekend. My time away from all my stress back home made me feel giddy with happiness. All my worries (as clich├ęd as it sounds) really did wash away for those few days and allowed me to be me again. Even though I have spent a lot of my childhood with the sand between my toes, the smell of the ocean and the sight of waves crashing on the shore still makes my heart race and butterflies rise up in my stomach. I'm drawn to the sea. I didn't realise it before but I feel as though this is where I must end up. I was never drawn to fashion as I am surfing. 
The kids amongst these photos came from the Jan Juc schools surf comp. The under 13s were canceled on the Saturday and so instead they came to Lorne to make the best of the beautiful swell that was breaking just off the main beach. Sitting on those rocks in the freezing cold, wrapped in two large hoodies didn't phase me because being there screaming out towards the sea "you bloody gun!" and "You little ripper!" as these surfers flipped and soared across the waves before me made it all completely worth it. 
(Click on images to enlarge)

1 comment:

Alexis Daiana said...

These are amazing :D I love it!