28 January 2013

Kennett River

Whilst watching my friend Trent surfing over New Years I found myself plotting my next photo shoot. On our second trip to Lorne a couple of weeks later we both waited for a sign of good surf and it wasn't until the day before I had to leave that a swell began to build at Kennett River - the first good one we'd had in days. With the boys itching to go, we all set off around 6.00 for a half our drive, surfboards roped to the roof and wetsuits piled in the boot. 

The weather was miserable. I wore two hoodies and two shirts to try and stay warm but my fingers and toes turned to ice whilst we stood out on the rocks watching the boys and one girl master the waves before us. It all felt very puberty blues, watching them surf whilst we waited, cold and kind of bored on the beach.

After a while the spitting rain became heavy and I wasn't prepared to risk my camera against it anymore. I turned to Sam (Zac's mother) and we ran to get our belonging and bolted for the car. From the warmth and shelter we watched our surfers battle it out against the cold and rocks and laughed and talked until hunger and loss of energy brought our troops back in.  

We all ate pizza for dinner and eventually found ourselves lugging mattresses into the round room at my beach house for a big sleepover to put a finish on a pretty perfect day. 

There were about 16 of us out in the cold and despite the weather and poor light, it was awesome fun. 


(Included amongst these are images of unknown surfers who happened to share the waves with us) 



Trent soaring across the wave in front of me 


Josh and Cody mucking around out of the reach of any waves




Cody having a quiet powernap...





Zac preparing for take off whilst Josh masters a casual flip



The lone surfer











The one girl amongst the thirty or so men 


2 comments:

Jenna-Rose Sheehan said...

These are beautiful photos,
I've been going to Kennett River 18 years, my whole life. And surfing it for years but these photos are just something!

Very impressed!
x
Jenna

Liza Mills said...

Thank you so much Jenna! Comments like yours mean the world to me. If I'm ever back there I should get photos of you surfing!
xx